Congee, the best kept secret of the Asian kitchen
A meal in itself, congee is Asian comfort food. Putting good use to leftover rice, the most basic congee is a stew of boiled rice. Many cuisines have made the dish their own by layering in flavour with combinations of stocks, fragrant oils, fresh and dried herbs, spices, vegetables, meat, poultry and seafood.
Congee comes in many consistencies. Some feature the broth as much as the rice. Other versions have very little liquid and the congee has a consistency similar to porridge.
Any rice varietal will work nicely to make congee. Short grain, long grain, white or brown rice, it doesn’t matter. When the cooked rice is added to a liquid over heat, the starches thicken to create a sauce. Water can be used as the liquid, but a home-made stock adds much more flavour.
My congee borrows the general technique but is not an attempt to create an authentic dish as prepared in the Philippines, China, South Korea, Thailand, Japan, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Indonesia, Malaysia or Vietnam.
Because the starting point for congee is so flavour neutral, a variety of vegetables, seasonings and stocks can be added. A fine dice of carrots, green beans or broccoli works well, as does a shredding of kale, spinach or sorrel. Instead of olive oil, use sesame or truffle oil. Add aromatics such as raw garlic, fried garlic chips, turmeric, coriander, cumin, saffron, pimentón or oregano. Homemade broth brings another level of flavour. You can use a dominating liquid like beef stock flavoured with anise or take a more delicate approach using prawn stock with a saffron infusion.
As an ingredient in congee, corn is an ideal companion because the firm sweet kernels contrast well with the creaminess of the boiled rice.
Corn and crayfish or lobster congee
Yield: 4 servings
If crayfish or lobster is not available, another protein can be used. Cooked or raw fish, crab meat or prawns can be substituted for crayfish or lobster. Or, shredded roast chicken or roast pork will pair nicely with the corn. A vegetarian version is easy to make by using homemade vegetable stock and fresh farmers market vegetables and herbs.
Cooking a crayfish or lobster is probably easier than you might think. Bring 75 millimetres of water to boil in a large pot. Hold the crayfish or lobster’s head submerged in the boiling water. Cover the pot with a lid. Cook five minutes. Remove the lid; submerge the part of the crayfish or lobster that is not yet red. Cover. Cook another three minutes. Transfer the crayfish or lobster to the sink. Reserve the water in the large pot.
When the crayfish or lobster is cool to the touch, hold it over a large bowl. Remove the legs, claws and tail, reserving any liquid to add to the stock. Discard the insides.
Removing the meat from the tail is relatively easy. Use kitchen shears to cut the shell underneath lengthwise and across the top of the tail. The meat will come out without effort. Cracking open the claws takes a bit more work and sometimes requires the use of a hammer. The body meat is especially sweet and requires the use of a pointed stick to separate the meat from the cartilage.
Some of the meat will be cooked. Some will be raw. Both can be used in the recipe.
Place all the shells into the pot with the cooking water and simmer covered thirty minutes. Strain out the shells and reserve the crayfish or lobster stock.
Refrigerate the crayfish or lobster meat and stock until needed. The preparation of the crayfish or lobster can be accomplished a day ahead. If all that sounds like too much effort, use the other proteins mentioned above.
Homemade stock is preferable to canned, boxed or frozen stocks, which are often overly salted and can have a stale taste. Homemade chicken stock is a good substitute if other stocks are not available.
Because rice varietals absorb liquid at differing rates, have enough stock on hand. Adjust the amount of stock as you cook until you have the consistency you enjoy. If you want your congee to have more soup, use six cups of stock. If you would prefer less soup, use four cups. Taste and adjust the seasonings as well.
- 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
- 3 ears corn, husks and tassels removed, washed, kernels cut off the cobs
- 1 medium yellow or red onion, washed, root end, top and outer skin removed, roughly chopped
- 4 large spring onions, washed, root end and discoloured leaves removed
- 4 to 6 cups homemade stock, crayfish or lobster stock if available or use chicken stock or water
- 4 cups cooked rice
- 3 cups cooked or raw crayfish or lobster meat (about a 1-kilogram crayfish or lobster) or another protein
- 1 punnet cherry tomatoes, washed, each tomato cut into quarters
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
- Cayenne to taste (optional)
- Add olive oil to a heated pot on a medium flame. Sauté corn kernels until lightly browned.
- Add chopped onions and sauté until lightly browned.
- Fine chop spring onions green parts. Cut white part into 5 mm bits and reserve.
- Add spring onion green parts to the sauté.
- Pour stock into pot, stir well and simmer five minutes.
- Add rice. Stir well. Continue to simmer.
- The longer the rice cooks in the liquid, the softer it will become. If cooked too long, the rice will dissolve creating an unpleasant texture. When the consistency is what you like, shred the crayfish or lobster meat and add along with the chopped cherry tomatoes. Stir well. Simmer two minutes.
- Season to taste with sea salt, black pepper, cayenne (optional).
- Serve congee hot in large bowls. Top with white spring onion bits.
Copyright David Latt via Zester Daily and Reuters Media Express